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Archive for China – Page 3

A Front Row Seat for the Cultural Revolution: And So the Adventure Begins

by Beverley
October 2nd, 2012

Since Fluffy took off to save his turkey friends from Thanksgiving disaster there haven’t been any health reports and queries come in from all over the world. Thank all of you for caring. I’m proud to report I’m making great progress. Tracey was here again and got me to dine at Lucky’s, Via Vai & even lunch at the Pharmacy. She found a stairless path from the parking lot in.

Yesterday Holly Lord and I lunched at Tydes and last night Bill Cornfield took me to Plow & Angel for dinner beneath the magnolia trees filled with sparking lights. And we even had a full moon!

And now I’m getting back to work. I haven’t felt up the hassle of getting my book “A Front Seat at the Cultural Revolution” published. This story of Jayne Meadows, Steve Allen and I getting into China in 1975 is fascinating and has an ending that is astounding! And great photos of a China were not a single person in the entire country owned a car. Where everyone wore the same shabby Mao suits. Today the roads are filled with Ferraris and Bentleys. Fifteen thousand dollar Birkin handbags can’t be found in New York now. They are all going to China!

Tracey suggested I serialize the book on my blog so here goes. Come with me to a China totally unrelated to China today. Take a front seat at the Cultural Revolution with Jayne, Steve and me……….

Beverly Hills April 2005: Monday’s society columns reported that Merv Griffin’s Beverly Hills Hilton Hotel ballroom was filled to overflowing, the gala benefit chairman wore a floral print chiffon gown from Oscar de la Renta’s spring collection and $250,000 was raised for the charity.

“You live in Santa Barbara I understand,” the elegant older woman, an American of Chinese descent, sitting to my right said in opening conversation. And my affirmative answer was followed with, “Do you know Rosa Wu* by any chance?”

“Indeed I do. It was thanks to Rosa that I was able to visit China during the Cultural Revolution 34 years ago. Just last week I told a friend about a remark I made to my fellow traveler Steve Allen(1) in 1975, that Rosa’s mother must have been the Madame Claude(2) of China to get us into China during the Cultural Revolution, and to get us a one month visa at that…


* Name has been changed
1. Steve Allen was actor, composer, author, comedian and possibly best known for starting the Tonight Show in 1954 on NBC.
2. Madame Claude ran the most famous, most glamorous house of prostitution in Paris the second half of the 20th century. Many of her beautiful, elegant, well trained girls married into the French aristocracy.


Chapter One
AND SO THE ADVENTURE BEGINS
Part One

They were an incongruous pair, the flame-tressed American woman and the stylish American of Chinese descent belting out chorus after chorus of Hello Dolly in Mandarin Chinese. Big red-painted wheels rolling noisily over rusted train tracks played backup for the twosome as we made our way towards the crossing point into the People’s Republic of China.

White mist from the steam engine up ahead cast a protective shield over a cluster of baby water buffalo grazing beyond our train windows. Big-footed Hakka women, who unlike most Han Chinese women never bound their feet, labored in the fields, shielded from the 20th century by black ruffled curtains cascading from their crownless straw sun shade hats. Viewing the serene ancient pastoral scene outside our train windows one could lose prospective of the ideological fanaticism of the Cultural Revolution that gnawed away at the remarkable ancient Chinese civilization.

And we were singing our way right into the eye of that frightening storm.

It was February 24, 1975 and ten of us from southern California were going into China. During that dark period of Chinese history people didn’t go to China, or leave China, visit China, take a trip to China. One was either going into China or coming out of China. It was rather like gaining admission to a high security prison.

The trip had come upon us quite unexpectedly. Rosa Wu had gone from Santa Barbara to visit her mother in Peking, a rather surprising event in 1974 when American citizens were not welcome in China unless their name was Nixon or Kissinger. While there she learned from her beautiful mother that the Chinese government was hoping to somehow get 10 Americans for the upcoming First Annual Tientsin Carpet Fair to be held in February 1975. The had ten Rumanians and ten Czechoslovakians, ten Russians and ten Bulgarians. But suddenly they wanted ten Americans.

Jumping into action Rosa flew out of China to Hong Kong and from there contacted her friend actress Jayne Meadows Allen in Los Angeles and on the telephone she, Jayne’s’ husband Steve Allen and Jayne formed a carpet company. That was three out of required ten Americans. Then Rosa remembered that she had seen me taking notes for my society column in the Santa Barbara News-Press in shorthand and remembered me once saying I longed to some day walk on the Great Wall of China. “Call Beverley Jackson in Santa Barbara and ask her if she wants to come as the secretary of our carpet company.” Without a thought of how I would swing it of course I said yes!

That was four out of ten. Rosa and Jayne filled out the remaining six with a couple who owned a carpet company, one of Hollywood’s leading interior designers and her daughter, a woman who had an important antique carpet company and a male interior designer. I was the least interested in carpets but I worked the hardest once we got to the Tientsin Carpet Fair as I had to keep writing the whole time — notes on all the endless meetings and transactions. I earned my trip by filling notebook after notebook of shorthand notes that were really of no interest to us but impressed the Chinese with how dedicated I was to my job. Jayne and Rosa bought lots of carpets for their company. Steve spent his time talking into his two small handheld recorders taking notes for the book he would write Explaining China.

Getting visas wasn’t easy. The United States and China had no formal diplomatic relations. George H. W. Bush was our representative in China but he was not an Ambassador. He was Chief of American Legation in Peking. There was no proper embassy in Washington DC and our visas had to come from a small office somewhere in our capital. Mine arrived special delivery air mail in the evening the night before I was to leave. Being optimistic I was packed and ready to go. I knew that I was going to China even though I had no visa for entry in my hand until hours before my departure from Santa Barbara.

This is what led up to our going into China on that old steam powered train with Hollywood actress and TV comedienne Jayne Meadows and Rosa Wu singing their way into China. Other than our own group, the passengers in our railroad car were returning Chinese carrying big bundles back from a day’s journey to the New Territories or Hong Kong who chose to ignore the strange singing and foreign words.

There was a bit of déjà vu for the two singers in the words “It’s nice to have you back where you belong”. Rosa had lived her early childhood in China, as did Jayne whose parents were American missionaries there. Jayne remembered her family’s hasty departure from China when conditions turned very bad for foreigners. She was seven years old and her sister, the late actress Audrey Meadows was five.

Hello Dolly in Mandarin wasn’t usual, nor was anything else about our journey into China in February 1975. Americans weren’t exactly running in and out of China in over-packed tour buses at that time. President Richard Nixon had been there. And Henry Kissinger. David and Evangeline Bruce had opened the U.S. Legation, but they weren’t swamped by an overflow of visitors from home. Barbara and George H. W. Bush were now holding down the Legation fort with no improvement in the situation. —to be continued

Chapter 1: Part 1  Part 2
Chapter 2: Part 1  Part 2  Part 3
Chapter 3: Part 1  Part 2  Part 3  Part 4
Chapter 4: Part 1
Chapter 5: Part 1  Part 2  Part 3
Chapter 6: Part 1  Part 2  Part 3
Chapter 7: Part 1
Chapter 8: Part 1  Part 2
Chapter 9: Part 1  Part 2
Chapter 10: Part 1
Chapter 11: Part 1  Part 2
Chapter 12: Part 1
Chapter 13: Part 1

By The Way
This blog was started to sell my new book and I keep going off on other topics. Please do check out The Beautiful Lady Was A Palace Eunuch at Amazon.com
Acknowledgement:
Kathleen Fetner, Technical Advisor and Friend
Categories Books
Comments (3)

I’ve Been in a Typhoon Too

by Beverley
September 5th, 2011
Quilin area 1997

The famous mystical mountains of Quilin which were painted through the centuries by China’s most famous artists. Notice the peasant in the background with a shoulder pole walking by the soaked rice paddies.

My blog on “Irene” ran too long and I didn’t get around to Typhoons I have known. So now that she’s past let’s talk about typhoons. The world typhoon comes from the Greek on a very devious route. In Greek it meant father of winds. In the Middle Ages the word was borrowed into Arabic. In Cantonese it is toi fung and in Mandarin it is tai feng (great wind). In 1699 it was recorded in English as tuffoon. Looking it up in the dictionary you get “Tropical cyclone occurring in western Pacific or Indian Oceans.” If you want my experience with the word it’s one horror of a wind/rainstorm in an area off the River Li near Quilin, China in 1997!!!

A group of seven of us on a very special China tour sponsored by the Santa Barbara Museum of Art, led by the late brilliant scholar Dr. William Wu, began the greatest trip of my life in Quilin in 1997. We traveled with a full time national guide and city guides in each city/village we visited, plus translators wherever we went as dialects changed drastically. One of our first days we left Quilin on the usual Li River Boat cruise all tourists take but unlike other tourists we had arrangements to disembark at a remote deserted part of the river. Our bus was sent off on a three hour drive to get to the place where it would pick us up on the other side of the river.

We weren’t very far down the river when a typhoon, very common in that part of the world (but not to us), set in. It was still in the early stages of its power when we disembarked. But this wasn’t a usual disembarkation. There was no gangplank. There was no dock. They had eliminated the “gang” and simply threw a line of linked wooden planks over the side for us to navigate with no railings. The river was very shallow at that point but still! A group of German tourists on board pleaded with us not to attempt it as the wind and rain were gaining strength, but off we went. We even paused for a group picture once we made it ashore. I wish I’d had a picture of me maneuvering those planks!

Our group in Quilin, China

Our group in China: Bill Wu wisely huddled in lots of thick rainproof gear sitting up front, I’m on far right, several of our guides and translators and disappearing in the distance the boat that dropped us off for our coming adventure — in a real honest typhoon!

We were headed for a generally unchanged Ming village one mile inland where at the school house, the only non-Ming building in the village, we were expected for a visit with the children. After a very short period of sloshing through the mud the storm gained such violence we realized we had to seek shelter and knocked at first little house we came to. The owners welcomed us with great warmth. It was the house of a man who repaired broken metal parts of the river ships and was quite nice for the area. There were two stories. The workshop and kitchen/living room area you might call it was downstairs as were the livestock and chickens and the family slept upstairs. They produced narrow wooden stools for each of us and kept the lighted brazier he used for heating his tools going so we could try to dry out.

After about 20 minutes there was a letup in the torrential rain and thunder and lightening and we set off again. But after a short while things got out of hand again. This time we sought shelter in more of a shack which was owned by a man who made raincoats out of palm fronds. The kind you see frequently in old Japanese woodcuts. I was dying to buy one he’d just finished and bring home for my Chinese costume collection. But Bill diplomatically suggested it would be cumbersome to wear, and also US Customs would never allow it in. So no palm frond rain coat for my collection.

Singing in typhoon on way to Ming village school near Kunming 1997

That bulge isn’t an indication of a future Jackson it’s my camera case I was hoping to keep dry. The big purse is nylon but the camera case is leather and things like leather can mildew fast in those conditions.

Ultimately the rain let up and the sun came out as we were wading through rice paddies. It became really hot and humid though a light rain still fell. I suddenly felt silly and burst into a song imitating Gene Kelly’s famous song/dance “Singing in the Rain.” My fellow travelers worried that the storm had possibly damaged my brain I’m sure.

singing in the rain for school children remote Ming village 100 miles from Quilin

The darling children sang to us and our group had to sing in return. Having heard my Gene Kelly “Singing in the Rain” number en route I was nominated.

The weather was really quite normal by the time we reached the Ming village and our destination school. And our welcome was truly warm. We were the first Westerners many of the children had ever seen. They were very much off the tourist path! Our visit had been anticipated for weeks and a whole program had been prepared for us. When their delightful program concluded Bill was asked for OUR program. We all looked at each other and finally someone started us on “Home on the Range.” You’ve never heard worse voices and so many la la la’s for forgotten words. At the conclusion of this never to be heard again performance the children stood waiting for our second act. At that point Bill introduced Beverley Jackson to the Chinese group and announced she would sing and perform a famous American song “Singing in the Rain.” Never in my life will I surpass the idiot I made of myself singing away in my terrible voice and prancing around with the open umbrella, improvising Kelly’s swing around the pole! But the children and teachers loved it. My group couldn’t stop laughing long enough to applaud. I acknowledged the praise from the children most graciously. And then I saw a beautiful sight — our getaway bus pulling up in front of the school!

By The Way
This blog was started to sell my new book and I keep going off on other topics. Please do check out The Beautiful Lady Was A Palace Eunuch at Amazon.com
Acknowledgement:
Kathleen Fetner, Technical Advisor and Friend
Categories My Life
Comments (1)
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